Arcadia and Bellerofon Hotels, Çıralı
Beach Cabins in Citrus Groves. Doubles from £90 B&B
Çıralı’s magnificent beach is fringed by citrus trees, mulberries and palms, and shock-pink oleanders in the manner of some verdant paradise island. Amidst this tended luxuriance are the pine chalet cabins of the Arcadia Hotel where the verandahs come with rocking chairs and with lines for drying swimming gear, and the practical interiors of varnished pine are spacious and light, with ensuite bathrooms; this is frill-free beach accommodation at its most enchanting.
The hotel building, no more than an extended cabin, functions as office/library and kitchen, and there’s a dining area with a central open hearth for chilly low-season nights. For most of the year, however, life unspools outside, in the tree-slung hammocks or on the shaded terrace where magnificent breakfast trays appear: muesli, yoghurt, fruit salad, juice squeezed from oranges picked from the hotel’s own groves, tomatoes, cucumber, olives, crumbly white cheese, walnuts, honey, raspberry and quince jams. Then fried eggs.
A few loungers and umbrellas are strewn across a sand and shingle beach too vast to ever get crowded, in early summer the nesting place and latterly the hatching site of loggerhead turtles. There are bikes to borrow. Evening meals are available on request.
Arcadia is fringed by cut-price versions of the same ethos and lay-out – the Bellerofon (Bellerophon) and Etenna (Athena) – which are run by the owner’s nephews; this extended family has perfected a holiday format suited to this laid-back and lovely idyll whose residents appear committed in their resistance to the least concretisation. A recent addition is Arcadia 2 – more similar bungalows, this time roofed with reeds – which stand in a citrus grove a short distance inland.