Writing Courses

Gulets are just the thing – where to begin? – for restorative lazing, swimming, eating and drinking, and putting ashore to experience another set of glorious ruins.  We’ve also noticed just how good they are for getting through books.  (I’ve chosen this accompanying image because scrutiny suggests it’s Seal 2…

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Battling the Turkish Umlaut

This summer I was hospitalised, which was hardly ideal but did prove timely, allowing me as it did to lie in bed for days on end enjoying the performances put on by teenage football star Arder Güler and his Turkish compatriots in reaching the quarter-finals of the Euros.  I was…

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What St Nicholas Did…

Last week I was back in southern Turkey on the trail of St Nicholas, the fourth-century bishop whom I first wrote about decades back in my Santa: A Life (or, more solemnly, Nicholas: The Epic Journey from Saint to Santa Claus in the US edition). It is a remarkable story…

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Istanbul and Cappadocia 2023

I am just now back from our winter tour of Istanbul and Cappadocia, the third time we have run this distinctive and, as far as I know, unique itinerary.  It will not be the last. I’ve long been convinced that this is the time to visit Istanbul and Cappadocia, in…

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6th February 2023

The horrific, heartbreaking scenes reaching us from southern Turkey and northern Syria speak of unimaginable tragedy in a corner of the world that has seen more by far than its fair share.  To Russia’s war (its previous one), to displacement, political unrest, minority oppression, brutality and poverty we may now…

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A Visit to Sagalassos

A week or so ago I was lucky enough to visit Sagalassos, a Roman city site in the Taurus Mountains a couple of hours’ drive north of Antalya.  I had visited some years before; this time I did so with Jason Goodwin – he of the acclaimed Yashim detective novels,…

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Turkish Dates

Turkish Dates (29th May 1453 and 15th July 2016, to name but two) What is it about dates – and I mean the day and the month rather than the year (easy-peasy) – which lends them such prominence in Turkish public life?  They are everywhere.  In my recent A Coup in…

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Göbekli Tepe and neolithic Turkey

In January 2018 I travelled with publisher Barnaby Rogerson and writer Jason Goodwin – distinguished Turkophiles both, savvy winter dressers neither – to Urfa in southeast Turkey.   This Kurdish/Arabic/Turkish region, where the Anatolian uplands meet the Syrian plain on the northern fringes of the Fertile Crescent, is astonishingly rich in…

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A Coup in Turkey and the Fight for Democracy

As a life-long devotee of the country, it was with some regret that I chose to call my forthcoming book A Coup in Turkey – in the manner of a news headline, as if coups are to Turkey what school shootings are to the US, missile tests to North Korea…

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A Coup in Turkey – An Airport in his Name.

When Izmır’s new airport opened in 1987, it bore the name of one of the Turkish port city’s most famous sons, though many preferred less publishable names for Adnan Menderes, who had led the country from 1950 to 1960.  Chief among these were military officers who had hoped the airport…

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