Fairy Chimney Inn, Göreme, Cappadocia
Ramshackle Cultured Cave Retreat. Doubles from £50 B&B
Hidden away in the boulder-strewn heights at the back of Göreme, a steepish 10-minute climb from the touristy centre, is this peaceful and determinedly authentic cliff–side warren of cave interiors, sun terraces and grassy seating areas.
The owners, German anthropologist Andus and his Turkish wife Gülcan, have simple tastes; the rooms are romantic and charming but tend to the scruffy. Friendly dogs and the regular presence of extended family members confirm that the place is as much the owners’ home as their livelihood. Gülcan often prepares legendary evening meals, baked aubergine and pepper dishes as well as specialities like mantı (ravioli), to feed guests (though they are obliged to book) and family alike. The defining feature here is the infused sense of curiosity and learning. Fairy Chimney Inn, which often hosts groups of young students, appears to function as a natural forum on Cappadocian culture; curious types who wonder about the geology, cuisine, Christian heritage, viniculture or even the ubiquitous rock-carved pigeon cotes should find their answers here.