Fethiye to Bodrum
A Gulet Odyssey
5th – 19th October 2024
An autumn fortnight exploring ancient Lycia and Caria in a gulet, a traditional Turkish schooner as comfortable as she is romantic, in the company of veteran Turkey hands travel writer Jeremy Seal and archaeologist Yunus Özdemir. Jeremy and Yunus have devoted much of their working lives to immersing themselves in Turkey; they retain a rare passion for the country. Experienced and attentive guides and good companions, they boast an unrivalled knowledge of this coast’s history, culture, topography, ancient ruins – and places for lunch. Gulet captain Alettin, with whom Jeremy and Yunus have worked for years, knows the best swimming spots and the most secluded anchorages better than anybody.
Excellent food both onboard and onshore, little-visited ancient sites, expert guides, informed talks, delightful swim spots and idyllic overnight anchorages. There is no better way to explore the Turkish Mediterranean.
Site gradings in bold indicate how uneven and/or steep the going will be underfoot; A-C are generally manageable, D may well be an issue for some, and E, should you ever come across the designation, is exclusively for goats.
Day 1/Sat 5 Oct 2024: Guests are met at Dalaman Airport for the 45-minute transfer to Fethiye where our gulet and a light dinner await.
Day 2/Sun 6 Oct 2024: After breakfast we spend a lazy morning at sea exploring Fethiye Bay’s pine-clad coves before anchoring in the afternoon at Gemiler. We put ashore in the late afternoon to explore the Byzantine monastic ruins of St Nicholas’ Island (B/C).
Day 3/Mon 7 Oct 2024: An early start for Firnaz Bay where we breakfast. Those who wish may put ashore for the 30-minute walk (C) up to the wonderful Roman aqueduct at Delikkemer (A/B). Others will put into nearby Kalkan to transfer to Delikkemer by minibus before we continue onto Patara (A). Ancient Lycia’s chief port city, birthplace of St Nicholas, has been the site of extensive archaeological discoveries in recent years, not least the reconstruction of the world’s oldest standing lighthouse – which is scheduled for completion by the time of our visit. We swim off the famed beach and lunch in the village, superbly, before returning to the gulet at its overnight anchorage at Limanağzı.
Day 4/Tues 8 Oct 2024: In the morning we head east to visit, weather permitting, Aperlae (B), where there is fine snorkeling over the ancient underwater remains of this remote port city. Those who wish may enjoy the 45-minute walk (A) across the isthmus to rejoin the gulet. We motor over Kekova’s famed sunken city before making for our overnight anchorage in a hidden cove on Kekova Island.
Day 5: Weds 9 Oct 2024: We put ashore for the hour-long transfer to Arycanda (B/C), an idyllic city site set in the wooded hills of the interior. After a delightful village lunch at the home of the site’s retired guardian, we return to the gulet to anchor in a quiet cove at Gökkaya.
Day 6: Thurs 10 Oct 2024: After breakfast we put ashore for the 90-minute circuit walk (B/C) to Istlada (B/C), a lovely Lycian city deep in the woods. In the afternoon we head for a remote anchorage on Kekova Island.
Day 7: Fri 11 Oct 2024: We put ashore at Andriake to visit the remarkable theatre and rock tombs at Myra (A) and the Byzantine Basilica of St Nicholas of Myra (A), among the most revered of saints and the inspiration for Santa Claus. In the afternoon we anchor for the night off Simena (B/C), where we explore this delightful citadel village and necropolis.
Day 8: Sat 12 Oct 2024: After a quick look at the remarkable shore necropolis at Teimiussa (B/C) we continue west to put into the harbour town of Kaş (A/B), with its Lycian rock tombs, fine theatre, charming back streets and attractive shops. We overnight at Firnaz.
Day 9: Sun 13 Oct 2024: We put ashore to board our minibus for the 45-minute drive to magnificent Pınara (B/C), among the most enchanting and untouched of all Lycian cities. After lunching in a village house just below the city, we continue west for another hour to Kayaköy/Levissi (B/C), where we walk the haunting ruins of a Christian village that has stood abandoned since the population exchanges of 1923. We cross the Bay of Fethiye to our overnight anchorage at Ağlımanı.
Day 10: Mon 14 Oct 2024: An early start for Iztuzu, where we board a awning-topped caique for our visit up the pristine Dalyan River to Kaunos (A/B), another port city distinguished by fascinating recent archaeological discoveries. We lunch by the river before rejoining our gulet for the night at Ekincik.
Day 11: Tues 15 Oct 2024: A lazy day at anchor off lovely Arab Island before we continue to our overnight anchorage in the magnificent natural harbor at Loryma (B/C), an imposing 4th-century BC bastion which we explore before dinner.
Day 12: Weds 16 Oct 2024: After a morning walk exploring the wild Loryma Peninsula (C), we head for Datça. We explore this pleasant port town before overnighting in a nearby bay.
Day 13 Thurs 17 Oct 2024: We head to Knidos (B), a fabled port city memorably located at the tip of the Datça Peninsula. We anchor for the night in the ancient harbour, with views over the theatre, and put ashore in the afternoon to visit the extensive ancient site, rich in temples, churches, cisterns and a wealth of fascinating detail.
Day 14: Fri 18 Oct 2024: We cross the Gulf of Gökova to anchor off one of the islands near Bodrum.
Day 15: Sat 19 Oct 2024: After breakfast we leave the gulet at Bodrum where plans will depend upon guests’ onward arrangements, some of whom may stay on at their own expense in this vibrant, attractive and historically interesting port, with its Mausoleum (A) and Knights’ Castle (A). Others will be dropped at Bodrum Airport for their flights.
For the itinerary on google maps, click HERE.
Our tours are designed and run by us. We make it our business to be there every time you descend a ladder into a dinghy, clamber onto a jetty, wander through an ancient site or along a footpath. But we cannot always be your eyes; it pays to be aware that the ground is often uneven, not to say steep, with no shortage of rocky protuberances, in Turkey. You will need a reasonable level of mobility, balance and fitness. We grade the sites we visit to the best of our ability, but cannot be absolutely sure that all outings and activities will be within the capabilities of all guests. We expect you to follow our advice if we feel that an outing, or an element of an outing, is beyond you. If you are the least uncertain as to your suitability to join a tour, we’d urge you to consult us.
Cost: £4100 per person sharing rooms, £5400 per person in sole occupancy of a cabin. Price includes all meals, onboard wine, beer and spirits, guiding, entry fees and talks, domestic flights, airport transfers, outings and tips. Does not include your flights, any necessary visas or onshore alcohol.
Your holiday is fully bonded and administered by Heritage Group Travel (www.grouptravel.co.uk) in Bath. For a small charge Heritage can also assist with your flights.
The trip will only run with sufficient numbers; early indications of interest are much appreciated.
Enquiries to jeremy@somewherewonderful.com or text/call Jeremy on 07757 703604.