Kabak Beach

Kabak Beach, Kabak

The road beyond Ölüdeniz ends at Kabak, a mountain-backed natural paradise famed for its turtles, fireflies and magnificently coloured Jersey Tiger moths, where the only way to the shore is by the village-run 4WD shuttle service (expect regular but occasionally peremptory service, £2 per head or £15 for the vehicle) or a steep half-hour hike. Conservation policy has prevented the raising of permanent structures here, spawning a stylishly low-key counter culture in the form of primitive but idyllic camps with timber cabins and huts. Tracks and paths lead through woodland, passing the blot that is the blunderingly sited and not-so-idyllic Sea Gardens resort, to the pristine if steep-shelving sand and shingle beach. A simple reed-topped shelter runs along the beach where locals also construct makeshift corrals to protect the newly dug sand nests of loggerhead turtles. In the wooded gardens behind the beach al fresco bars serving juices and beers are scented with patchouli, and hand-painted signs made from driftwood advertise crafted jewellery and walking routes.

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