Kaya Pansiyon, Kapıkırı, Bafa Lake
Simple Shoreside Cabin Stays. Doubles from £45 H/B
Set in an otherworldly garden of boulders and tended flowerbeds on a bluff immediately above the beach, there’s nowhere like this makeshift but arcadian campsite with cabins for watching the sunset; a silvering lake, beer and a home-cooked fish supper on the covered terrace invariably feels like the last word in kick-back contentment.
The place is run by Gunay Çakır and his extended family who speak no English but are charming; they have acquired an impressive capacity to communicate with overseas guests, or at least to anticipate their needs. Some of the six cabins are eccentrically furnished, with too many heavy armchairs, but others are just right; stripped boards, lots of natural light and verandahs for sitting out and lines for drying washed socks that have been stomped across the mountains through the heat of the day.
There’s no easy way to book here. Either reach Gunay Çakır by text (90 542 723 4214) and he’ll find somebody to respond to your request. Or just turn up by following the road until it stops at the beach; chances are rooms will be available.