Old Greek House, Mustafapaşa, Cappadocia
Creaking but characterful town mansion. Doubles from £50 B&B
The elegant if faded town of Mustafapaşa, with its garden squares and streets lined with plane trees, has a pronounced Provencal feel. It was formerly Sinasos, a favoured resort of prosperous Ottoman Greeks whose handsome, conventionally constructed stone dwellings lend it a less troglodytic character than other Cappadocian towns. One of the most imposing such residences is this mansion which the current owner’s father bought for ten gold liras in 1938; the feeling, fabulously, is that only the bathrooms have since undergone much in the way of updating.
The result is a family-run hotel which exudes period atmosphere. It stands on the corner of a garden square, with a discreet entrance leading into a huge vine-hung courtyard which gets busy with visiting groups at lunchtime. Stone stairs with rickety handrails lead to bedrooms with period painted ceilings and to a dining room where guests eat evening meals cross-legged at low tables.