Agora Pansiyon, Kapıkırı, Bafa Lake
Civilised Walkers’ Inn. Doubles from £70 H/B
At its heart the Sercin family’s much-loved Agora is an exceptional example of the pansiyon – an auberge with excellent home cooking – in a wonderfully picturesque village position. The timbered interiors and shelves stacked with bird books, maps and archaeological monographs also infuse the place, however, with a welcome sense of the same roving cultural curiosity which tends to motivate most visitors to Kapıkırı; those who like birds and botany, rustic culture and richly-strewn ruins are sure to feel thoroughly at home here. The well-appointed bar feels like reward after long days in the mountains or among the islands on the lake, and there are flower-filled gardens and shaded seating areas, and a very popular hammock. Mithat, the older of the two sons, is a good English speaker and the go-to person for guests looking to arrange boat trips or walking guides.
Most of the en-suite bedrooms – hardly swish, but light and roomy – are in annexes or cabins in the flower-filled gardens while a short distance away the pansiyon owners have converted some of the tiny village houses into rustic duplexes; a bedroom in each case, with bathroom en bas. The family serves excellent meals of unadorned quality, typically lake-caught bass, with home-produced bread and olive oil, and a salad of dill and potatoes.