Hoyran Wedre, Hoyran, near Kekova
Rustic Retreat. Doubles from £100 B&B
In the rocky, wasp-haunted hills above Kekova, Canan and Suleyman have conjured a hamlet of traditional Anatolian houses, with roughly finished walls of stone and mortar and wide shaded first-floor verandahs in local wood, an Eden among these hot unwatered heights. The effect is resolutely rustic, with home-made hen houses and red-earth kitchen gardens conspicuous in the delightful walled grounds.
Not all will find the traditional interiors, short on natural light and long on dark furniture such as heavy armchairs and glass-fronted armoires, entirely to their holiday taste. Bu they will adore the gardens, and the on-site owners are so charming and helpful as to offset any such reservations; the views beyond the large, centre-piece swimming pool to the sea are magnificent.
Meals are taken on the main terrace beneath a vast oak tree where breakfasting guests can expect an array of home-made local jams; I counted twelve, including one made from sandalwood berries. Dinners are available upon request. This bewitching place, a world away from Kalkan or Kaş, is for those contented to do no more than rest, swim and explore; a short hike through fields leads to the barely visited ruins of Hoyran where carved Lycian sarcophagae are casually scattered among carob trees. A wider network of local trails, including a four-hour one down to Kekova, makes this a popular base for walkers.